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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Charles,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>You should go to the manuals section of
Sillylittlecars.com and download the service manual and it's supplement.
They contain a lot of information that you are going to need to revive your
Truckster that I wish I had while doing mine. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>It's getting difficult to find many parts for
Trucksters. The motor parts, like gaskets, etc. are quite readily available from
places like Directparts.com but you will likely run into problems
locating things like gas tank caps, brake cylinders, brake shoes, brake master
cylinders, etc. Fortunately, Cushman used many standard parts that are still
readily available from the automotive and forklift industry. The only
problem in finding them is that there seems to be no industry cross
reference information to the Cushman part numbers. One member of the
service team at my local ORiley store, with many years of experience, was able
to help me by using his experience and good memory to find parts that matched my
needs. The older parts guy at the forklift shop also has many years of
experience and has helped me the same way. Cushman Trucksters are
industrial vehicles, so they were originally serviced by shops that repaired
industrial vehicles, such as forklifts. Cushman didn't make all of the
parts they used. Most were sourced from the automotive industry. Cushman made
the body and chassis parts, but sourced many of the other parts and then
assembled the Trucksters from them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I was able to find the exact same brake master
cylinder (new on the shelf) at a forklift repair shop for $31. This
same master cylinder is used in several models of forklifts. It is currently
selling on the internet for 2-3 times that price when you search for it as a
Cushman part. The wheel cylinder rebuilding kits for my truckster are
identical to early 1980s Ford F-100 pickup trucks. I bought them from ORiley
Auto Parts store for about $5 each. Identical brake shoes came from the forklift
shop for $10 each. The fuel filters (even the bypass filter) are readily
available through ORiley Auto Parts and other auto parts stores. I will
post the source and part numbers for the parts that I found this way, but
it may take me a few days to get this list together, I had intended to
do this for myself, but other priorities in my life have delayed me. I
saved the box tabs with the brand and part numbers for each part that I bought,
but just put them in an envelope. I guess it's now time to put the list together
from them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>A note about the brake systems used in these
Trucksters: They aren't sealed systems like the newer automotive brake systems.
The master cylinder has a vent in the cap that allows air/moisture to enter/exit
from the reservoir. The brake fluid used in the Truckster
brake system is alcohol based and the alcohol part of the
fluid will absorb water vapor. When sufficient water has been absorbed it
will begin rusting the steel parts of the brake system from the inside.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>The brake system in my Truckster was a complete
rusted mess internally from sitting in a damp forest and absorbing moisture
through the vent with every atmospheric pressure and temperature change that
occurred for the 12 plus years that it had been sitting there. Now
that my brake system has been completely rebuilt, I've considered trying to find
a more modern sealed system alternative for the master cylinder, but will
likely just completely remove the brake fluid from the system and replace it
with new fluid on an annual schedule. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Charley</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joecool1456@gmail.com href="mailto:joecool1456@gmail.com">Charles
Shearin</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=silly_little_cars@lists.sillylittlecars.com
href="mailto:silly_little_cars@lists.sillylittlecars.com">Silly Little Email
List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, July 28, 2013 7:09 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Silly Little Cars] help 89
truckster</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV>
<DIV>thanks for the info think i can fix it from your email. <BR></DIV>can't
thank you enough<BR></DIV>charles<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_extra><BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 6:54 PM, Charley <SPAN
dir=ltr><<A href="mailto:clent@carolina.rr.com"
target=_blank>clent@carolina.rr.com</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"
class=gmail_quote><U></U>
<DIV bgcolor="#ffffff">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Charles,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>You have a 22 hp OMC 2 cylinder engine (22 hp =
spark plugs on top of cylinders - the 18 hp version has the spark plugs on
the lower side of the cylinders). The cylinders are horizontally opposed
(one out each side of the crank case). There are 2 coils, one for each spark
plug. Both spark plugs fire at the same time since they are connected in
series to the same points, but the cylinder that's on the compression stroke
is the only one that lights (this is called a "lost spark ignition system"
).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>It appears as though you have the original mechanical
fuel pump and the bypass filter (necessary when using the original
fuel pump) and it is quite likely that this pump is bad. </FONT><FONT
face=Arial>These original fuel pumps are hard to find and expensive if
you do find one. I switched to an electric fuel pump. The pump itself costs
$53 and it self regulates the pressure, so you can eliminate the bypass fuel
filter and just use a single inline filter between the tank and the electric
fuel pump. The hole where the mechanical fuel pump was mounted needs to be
plugged with a thick metal plate and gasket if you switch to the electric
fuel pump.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I would first check the inline fuel filter nearest to
the tank. Disconnect the fuel line on the output of the filter to see if gas
comes out. If it does, put the line back on the filter and go to the fuel
pump and disconnect the line that goes from it to the bypass filter (the
filter with three connections). Turn the engine over and see if fuel comes
out of the fuel pump. If it does the pump is OK, so you can replace the fuel
line connection. Now remove the fuel line connection from the
carburetor and turn the engine over. If you get fuel coming out of the line,
the carburetor is your problem and it will need to be cleaned and
possibly re-built. If it is a Keihin carburetor, first look in the end of
the carburetor connection where the fuel line connects. The Keihin
carburetors have a tiny fuel filter screen on a tubular plastic frame
that is inserted into the fuel fitting of the carburetor. You will need
a sharp knife to catch the edge of it to remove it. Before rebuilding
the carburetor, check this screen to be sure that it is clean. If there is
no screen or the screen is clean the next possible problem is a
stuck needle valve and/or damaged float inside the carburetor. If you
have to go inside the carburetor, be prepared with
replacement gaskets, a replacement float and needle valve, and an
accelerator pump diaphram to completely rebuild the carburetor. You will
need to run a cleaning wire through all of the internal ports and use
carburetor cleaner to remove all of the varnish and dirt before
reassembly. Carburetors are complicated. If you have never done this
before, find someone who has and let them do it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>My 1987 Truckster had been sitting untouched in a
forest for a bit over 12 years and it needed everything that I described
above, plus the removal, derusting, and cleaning of the fuel tank and all
new fuel lines, fuel filter, and electric fuel pump and a new fuel tank cap
before I could get my truckster running. For the tank cleaning I bought
a cleaning/relining kit from KBS Coatings through Amazon. Although the
cleaning and relining of the tank was time consuming, it wasn't hard to do
and it worked very well. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Charley</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4"><B>From:</B> <A
title=joecool1456@gmail.com href="mailto:joecool1456@gmail.com"
target=_blank>Charles Shearin</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=silly_little_cars@lists.sillylittlecars.com
href="mailto:silly_little_cars@lists.sillylittlecars.com"
target=_blank>silly_little_cars@lists.sillylittlecars.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:15
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Silly Little Cars]
help</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>just bought my 1989 cushman and can anyone tell me the size of the
engine?<BR></DIV>attached are pics of the engine it is a one spark plug
engine<BR></DIV>Also cannot get gas from tank to carb<BR></DIV>pic of one
of the gas filters it has three lines to it, can I just remove this filter
in the pic and will it matter?</DIV>
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